1967 W110 Mercedes Benz 200D

1967 Mercedes-Benz 200-Series 200D Description:

I purchased this car on eBay in early 2007 for $4000, I did as close to a frame off restoration as can be done on a unibody car over the next 3.5 years. I finished it the week before getting married in Nov 2010 and it served as our get away car. This is an original, older restoration, I made no mods and I cut no corners, there is no butchery under the hood or elsewhere, even the cardboard liners under the dash are present and intact. My goal was to bring it back to how it left the dealer back in 1967. This is a last year Heckflosse, in 1968 the /8 w115 chassis replaced the w110.
All of the interior was removed and everything cleaned. The interior was in good condition but the rubber sill covers and all door gaskets were replaced, the cloth over the interior seals was replaced, new rubber flooring was installed and the back glass gasket had leaked so the rear carpet on the parcel shelf was replaced and the right side front floor pan had rusted through and a replacement was installed. All hinges and regulators were lubed. A local upholstery shop patched the back of the seat due to sun damage with the correct MB tex rosette pattern but there is a visible seam as shown in one of the photos where the patch was made. One seat belt is blue, I have not been able to source a replacement in the tan color in the original style from Mercedes, the seat belts are original to the car per the spec sheet, in the original style, they are not a later installation, I assume the original owner damaged one and got the blue one from a junkyard.The entirety of the brake system was redone, the booster is a new old stock unit. The front brakes were completely replaced, the rear drums were machined and they all other rear brake hardware was replaced.The engine was removed, the oil pan removed and everything underneath inspected, the glow plugs were replaced after reaming and the injectors and pump were all gone over, the entire engine was detailed and the vacuum pump, alternator and AC compressor were rebuilt, water pump and oil pump replaced.The suspension was replaced in its entirety with new coil springs, rubber bushings and shocks, the exhaust system was completely replaced and the transmission was resealed and cleaned as was the rear axle, the clutch was replaced as was the clutch hydraulic system. The transmission shifts smoothly and has synchronized gears, basically the clutch is only needed for 1st and reverse. The fuel tank was dropped and cleaned. Front wheel bearings were replaced. The steering was rebuilt as well, for non power steering it is quite easy to steer.The original Kuhlmeister AC is in working order and blows cold, the evaporator coil was repaired, dryer and expansion valve replaced. All 3 blower speeds work. A working kuhlmeister unit complete on its own is worth 4K. On the mechanical end not much was left undone and everything was done right with OEM parts. Even relatively trivial details work, the clock, the radio (rebuilt by Becker and an accessory jack was added so you can play audio from your phone/MP3 player), the antenna is a real Hirschmann, the cabin air filters were replaced, all gauges work, etc. Everything rubber was replaced and the steering was rebuilt. To my knowledge the new owner has just a few issues to consider:1) The AC is presently filled with HC 12, after repairing the AC system I was reluctant to charge it with R12 given the expense and worry it could still leak despite it holding vacuum for a day. Technically you are supposed to label the system as filled with HC 12. The only non factory sticker on this car is a vintage NRA sticker in the back glass that I kept as it seems to date from the late 60's, it came with the car so I left it. Anyway, it has held HC 12 for 7.5 years so we can trust it is leak free, I can remove it and deliver it evacuated and ready to charge with R12 or you can choose to keep it, but don't let an AC shop evacuate it into there R12 containment.2) The tires are 8 years old, the car is garage kept and they look practically new, no cracks, they hold air, but due to age they should be replaced. Per the mercedes build sheet it shipped with wide white wall bias tube tires and that is what I would install. It has Michelin bias ply tube tires now but they are not wide white walls. I would stick to bias tires only because without power steering, radials have a wider contact patch and will be harder to steer, the rims do hold air without a tube and technically you could use radials.3) On a cosmetic end it is very presentable as is, it has no major rust or dents. It has a roughly 2" by 1" rust patch at the bottom of the driver door as shown. It has some minor door dings and chips. The bumpers have some dents and the brightwork has the wear one would expect on a 50 year old car, i.e. The aluminum has some minor oxidation but is still bright, the chrome has some surface rust that is visible on close inspection, the bumpers have a few dents. I had wanted to paint it, but I am a perfectionist and would rather have it as is, then a cheap paint job, the paint still shines when waxed but it shows its age.4)The rusted floor pan I did myself with a repro floor pan, it is not perfect, it is a sound but visible patch.5)The headliner has some sun damage at the back, it could be replaced but it is also overall in good shape, no other tears or sags.6)The windshield has some deep pits but is usable and not cracked, chipped or delaminated. Despite the minor flaws it is very complete it even has the coco fiber floor mats and an optional accessory tach (original Mercedes/VDO) which works and a period correct first aid kit mount, though the box is from a 70's car, I believe 60's was black, the jack works, spare is present and the tool kit even spare box of fuses is all there, a couple tools are mismatched and in black oxide which is period correct for Ponton's, the 60's tools were the bright finish. The keys are all original by the correct manufacturers and work, even the glove box lock (glove box and trunk are one key, doors another, ignition another and the other "key" is to pull up the antennae) I also have every book, the manuals including the phone book sized dealer part number look up alone is 1K worth of books. All of my receipts and all of the old owners receipts and a log I kept of the restoration are all included. To my knowledge I am the 3rd owner, the 1st 2 were in Kentucky. The lore is that this car was originally bought by a BATF revenue agent to bust moonshiners as he hoped the tractor sound would throw them off. The original owners metal dealer tag and his receipts are included. The second owner more or less just flipped it after buying it from the widow, he sold it to me, the brakes were inoperable on arrival but it started and ran well. On the mileage, I have put less than 1000 miles on this car since I bought it. It shows 80,322 miles, however it only goes up to 99,999, by the receipts I know it has rolled around once and I suspect it is 180,322 but I cannot verify that 100%. While the fluids are in good shape and I changed the fluids last winter and all filters, it should be done again, it has an oil bath air filter and the injection pump also gets its own oil change.I suppose the question every one asks is why am I selling. This is simple, this car, as awesome as it is, has 55 hp, it redlines at 82mph, it takes 30 seconds to go from 0-60, that is not because something is wrong with it, those are the factory specs. It would be an awesome car for someone in a small town, for a collector, for a parade, for a dealer showroom display, but it is not a good daily driver in a big city. I was working on a 240D engine which will be a direct fit, it is an early OM616.916 it uses the same type glow plug, has the same sensor ports, and the oil filter is in the same location. This is important because the later OM616.912 that is more readily available has the oil filter in the back and uses different glow plugs so the result will be a very butchered appearance. This motor will keep the stock look and function but with enough power to make it workable. The engine is stripped and ready for the machine shop, it needs new sleeves, pistons, rings, valves, etc. I will include it at no additional charge with many of the parts I have for the rebuild including a new cam and gasket. I have many parts I will include as well including a spare heater core and brake booster which needs to be rebuilt. If you wonder, this is my hobby, I restore cars, I currently have 2 other projects, my fascination is diesels so I have done a few Mercedes, this was the oldest I have tackled.
I am open to any fair offer, I have $18k invested and if I parted it out I would easily get that back. I want this car to go to someone who appreciates it for what it is and will continue to take it back to what it was when new. Based on valuation guides what I am asking is not unfair, a car optioned as this one is if repainted and finished is worth $20k, there is enough left to do that work and get your money out if you have to. As is it is valued between $11-15k per Mercedes club of North America valuation guide. If you live in Texas, I am happy to renew the inspection and I am confident it could be driven home as is within a few hundred miles.

Starting engine - YouTube

Video will open in a new window

[isdntekvideo]

Engine running - YouTube

Video will open in a new window

[isdntekvideo]