1971-1980 International Scout II custom frame (2015 Wrangler) coil suspension

1973 International Harvester Scout Description:

Selling a custom Scout II frame and suspension ONLY: Frame is a 2015 Wrangler that has been shortened to 102" wheel base using the factory Jeep frame splice system. The frame has been chemically stripped to bare metal. A used JK frame in good shape runs 2k on average—delivered.
In anticipation of individuals wanting to learn how to accomplish putting a Wrangler chassis under their Scout II I have given the explanation that follows. I ask that only serious bidders contact me directly if more information is needed. As much as I love talking cars I don’t have time to help others with their builds at this time; however, the explanations below will give you a good head-start. Be forewarned: aligning the Scouts’ body to the frame is not an easy task due to weight considerations alone. Shortening the frame so that the wheels are in correct placement within the wheel wells is critical. Body mounts have to be made. The mounts must ensure the body is level and uniform to the frame. Engine placement must complement both the body AND the frame. It’s a lot of work and fabrication.

How the frame was shortened: Jeep uses three frame components in their frame assembly. There is a front assembly that is a complete, assembled unit and a similar rear section. The two are joined at the frame rails, internally, with a rectangular steel tube section (“inner sleeve”) that penetrates several inches into both the left and right frame rails for both front and rear frame assemblies. In short the Jeep frame is modular and “telescopes” which accounts for the two door and four door Wranglers—the difference in frames primarily being the length of the inner sleeve.
To shorten the frame the inner sleeve was separated from the front frame assembly by grinding out the factory welds. The inner sleeve, still attached to the rear frame section assembly, was then decoupled from the front frame assembly. The inner sleeve was then precisely shortened and the rear frame assembly with its shortened sleeve was reinserted into the front frame assembly with the “telescoping” penetration exceeding the factory’s. The “telescoping” aspect of the frame is a very tight tolerance—it squares the frame automatically although the frame was jigged and leveled during reassembly. Moreover, the factory crossmembers in both front and rear frame assemblies further force the frame into perfectly square.
The rear of the frame has been extended 10" (to accommodate the extra length of the Scout’s body behind the rear tires) using a factory JK rear frame section (paid $550.00) and a custom inner sleeve. All six of the Scout's body-to-frame mounts are in the correct position for any 1971 - 1980 Scout II to bolt directly up.
The motor mounts used are JEEP SPEED SHOP OR "JSS" and are in place for a LS fuel injected Chevy engine and automatic transmission. The mounts have been modified and repositioned to place the drive train in the perfect location for both the Scout II’s body and the Wrangler frame. JSS sells the mounts for $220.00 plus the Hemi bushings which work on the LS with slight modification.
The suspension consists of new READY LIFT 2.5" coils with Bilstein shocks ($400.00 when new) and Full Traction Suspension’s heavy duty adjustable control arms with heim joints (I have all uppers and lowers except for the rear lower arms. For the rear lowers I recommend Synergy’s adjustable arms because it can be adjusted in or out while it’s installed on the vehicle. Other brands require removing one end, adjusting and reinstall by trial and error). This set up clears 35s with no fender modifications.
Mounted to the rear of the frame at the 10" extension is a brand new, installed GenRight aluminum gas tank $1400.00 plus) with 3/16” steel skid plate with new in tank fuel pump set up to run GM LS fuel injection with Novak fuel pump adapter installed.Where the tank meets the rear-most frame crossmember the skid plate’s lip sits atop said cross member. 5 bolts secure it to the crossmember with drilled and tapped holes. At the front of the tank the skid plate attaches to the frame with one bolt on either side which bolts to a custom bracket at the tops of the frame. It is very easy to remove or install the tank/skid plate assembly.
Mounted to the frame is a new 2018 Kaymar ($3k plus) rear bumper with dual swing arms: tire carrier with gas can holder. Kaymar is an Australian product and makes the best equipment on Earth. This tire carrier has absolutely zero rattle or movement. It is extremely stout and has an integral hitch. The lower sides of the Scout’s tailgate will require slight notching with a Dremel tool to clear the arm bases when the tail gate is open. See pics.
Sale comes with a new aluminum radiator with dual electric cooling fans with integral shroud.
It is a lot of fabrication and time to duplicate this set up.
To install in your Scout II you will remove your front clip, disconnect all lines from frame to body such as shifters, speedometer cables, emergency brake lines, etc. Next you will unbolt the six body mounts that hold the tub to the frame and the rear bumper. Next, using a floor jack, jack the rear axle up as if changing a tire. Place jack stands on the body, below the tailgate area, at the sides of the body crossmember where the rear body mounts attach. There is a “pocket” area where the jack head can support the body’s crossmember while avoiding contact with the frame or rear quarters. Making sure the front tires are securely chalked and remove the rear wheels and slowly lower. The body will separate from the frame at the rear.
A gantry crane with straps to the front body (as per the pictures) is used employed using a similar technique. The old chassis is then dragged out and the new chassis pushed in (sitting on steel wheels to keep the chassis height low). Alternatively to the gantry crane method for the front it is possible to place jacks at the front sides of the body at the lower rocker where it is reinforced by the body mount. This method would require removal of the rear axle assembly so that when the old frame is dragged out the rear axle won’t interfere with the jacks holding up the body at the front.
DRIVE TRAIN NOT INCLUDED. Wheels and tires not included. Body not included. I can include new 2015 axless, complete, for an additional amount.
To complete the conversion on your Scout II body you will need:
Front and rear JK axles any year 2007-2017.
Wide Open Designs LS power steering relocation kit or similar: $700.00 with pump. Some LS engines will not require this as car engines have a different power steering pump configuration that may not interfere with the JK steering gear—see the pics.
Any GM fuel injected LS Engine, transmission, transfer case and EFI wiring and computer any LS 1999-2013 will bolt in. New engines may.
Rear track bar.
JK steering gear and drag link.
Stock Hemi motor mount isolators (rubber encased in metal bracket that attaches with four bolts to the engine block and then the rubber portion attaches to the frame’s motor mounts).
Front and rear sway bars.
Wheels and tires: must use at least a 16” wheel. My set up uses a 9.5 wide wheel and essentially 35x12.50s.
Brake booster and master cylinder from a Jeep TJ.
Brake lines.
Transmission cross member.
Boregson 34” DD steering shaft and two u joint adapters to marry the Scout steering column shaft to the JK steering gear (I have the part descriptions).
Front and rear drive lines.
Other miscellaneous parts and minor fabrication.

Most of these parts can be had used for a reasonable price.
Shipping: I will bolt the frame to two 4x4 wood beams (axles) with four 10” rubber caster wheels to enable it to be rolled onto a typical U-Haul auto transport which can be rented for $60.00 a day through U-Haul. The frame can easily be loaded by two people and with the use of a ratchet strap one person can do it—it’s suprisingly light.
Selling as I have decided to run a Duramax diesel set up.

I have over 23k into my Scout as seen in the pictures not including the value of the body. My Scout’s body is in excellent condition and is virtually rust free. I may entertain selling my Scout as a whole as seen in the pics but not cheaply.
Thank you for looking.
I am in Arizona.
David.
8/1/2018
Q:Do you have an Instagram Or Facebook of you’re build? Pictures and stuff. Why did you go with a 102 wheelbase? I was thinking of doing a 101 because the rear wheel well looks tight. Be cool if you have documentation of ya build. Let me no.
A:The factory rear Scout suspension utilized leaf springs that when compressed pushed the rear suspension out and toward the rear bumper direction nessitating the wheel to be offset towards the front of the Scout at the rear. If you look closely at a stock Scout you will see that the rear wheel is not centered in the wheel well—it is closer to the door side of the wheel well than it is the side closest to the rear bumper. This is to allow for the axle (on the stock Scout suspension) to move rearward upon compression. A coil spring suspension moves mostly straight up and down upon compression so there is no need for the wheel base to be skewed towards the door side as it is with leaf springs—instead with coils it can and should be centered in the wheel well. Same logic applies to the front except the factory wheel well was designed for the front axle to move forward upon compression: hence the wheel well in the front is larger towards the front bumper side. Since the front axle now moves mostly straight up and down an extra inch can be had in the front stock wheel well. Hence one inch gain in the rear to center the wheel and and one inch in the front to do the same: 102” vs stock 100”. My lift is barely 2” above a factory JK. With a taller lift the axle will move outward, away from the fixed point on the frame, more but not as dramatically as a leaf spring with pivoting shackles. My set up moves perhaps half an inch upon full compression—to the factory bump stops.