1995 Chevrolet Impala SS Project! - No Reserve!

1995 Chevrolet Impala Description:

Relisting due to non payment! If you have a 0 eBay rating or an account zip code more than 100 miles from St. Louis, your bid will be cancelled unless you send me a message!
Forsale is a 1995 Chevrolet Impala SS. I or my mother have owned this car since 1996, and I have long hoped to turn this car into a drag race machine, but events in my life are forcing me to re-examine what my priorities are and I realize that it is unlikely that I would finish this car any time before my 5 year old finishes high-school... I don't want to see it sit around for another 15 years.
In 2004 I installed an underdrive pulley, MSD 6AL ignition box and upgraded to aftermarket programming.
In 2006 I replaced the intake, exhaust manifold and mufflers. This car now comes equipped with Clear image automotive headers featuring 4-1 collectors, and a spintech pro-stock stainless steel exhaust with catalytic converters. Make no mistake that this is a loud car. I also have upgraded the stock auburn posi with .308 final drive to a Eaton posi with .342 gears. I also installed a smooth front bumper and a functional ram-air fiberglass hood (after getting in a fender bender).
In the past three years I have worked to restore the motor to better-than-stock performance. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, and many sensors in the engine bay trying to isolate a performance issue. The issue was ultimately determined to be corrosion in the opti-spark distributor. Since the car has over 100,000 miles and is 22 years old, I replaced the water pump while completing the distributor replacement (it has to come of anyway). During this extensive troubleshooting, I also removed the stock loom material on the wiring harness, and took the time to re-wrap this with a combination of loom and silicone tape. I also added improved 12V bus and grounding for the aftermarket ignition and MSD, which is located where the stock air-cleaner is.
I also identified that the headers were burning the spark-plug cables for cylinders 6 & 8, and as you'll see in the picture the cables are now (2016) routed over the newly added polished aluminum valve covers. the top of the intake manifold was also partially polished to add to the look.
What is wrong with this car?
1) Basically, the interior has deteriorated because it has not always been garaged. I was in the Army and it wasn't an option, so I can't lose sleep about it now. This means that the seats, headliner, rear deck and notable the door panels are not in great condition. For a person desiring to restore the car, this would likely be the #1 time consumer.
2) There is rust. Again, having been outside, there is rust in places like the front door sill, in the engine bay and basically everywhere! I have specifically added pictures of the rear driver quarter which is fairly chewed up. On a positive, this is MUCH better condition than a 70's era car that might be fully rusty and not made from galvanized panels.
3) The hood does not have the full latch safety mechanism. This means that the hood is held shut only by the latch, no secondary catch. In practice it has been this way since 2006 and has never popped open on trips from Colorado to Wisconsin or Illinois or Wisconsin. I do have the parts for this (I believe I have them all, no guarantee).
4) One of the rear doors has a malfunctioning window, which will not properly raise if lowered. This would likely be an easy fix.
5) The digital speedometer is currently having contact issues. Look online and you'll see that this piece reads from the car by a pressure-only connection. Over time the solder contacts wear and need to be rebuilt. I did this once and it is easy if you can solder.
6) The Air conditioning requires coolant each year. I had a leak likely incurred when I installed the headers (2" rip in a hose oops). I have replaced this hose with the OEM part and also wrapped silicone covered kevlar heat-shield tape on it (the kind used on motorcycle exhaust). It was very difficult to get a socket on to tighten it, but I think that a better mechanic could mitigate the leak. Either way, the AC will hold all summer and blows cold.
7) Things in the car like the suspension are stock and 22 years old. Anything not listed here is unmodified and probably needs maintenance as the purchaser desires. The shocks, for example are like sponges.
8) The stereo will require an amplifier. I intend to remove the amplifiers from the car. This means that the car will be delivered with alpine head-unit sending 6 RCA cables to the trunk along with appropriate wiring for amplifier power sense, etc, and a 200amp fused cable (installed in Germany so I don't know the gauge) that was used for a 1500W RMS stereo. I will be leaving the JL audio 6x9's and 6 1/2" component speakers in along with the wiring. You'll simply need to hook up the amp of your choosing.
9) The alternator will likely need to be replaced. I had two alternators, one with a fried charging circuit, one with a melted coil. I re-assembled them into a single unit that has worked for about two-years, but I want it to be clear that I do worry it might someday fail.
10) As a result of the fender bender in 2006, the air-bag system is not functional. The Passenger bag was replaced and connected, the drive bag is installed but not plugged in. What would it take to make that work? I have no idea...
11) The ABS light occasionally comes on.
12) The cruise control currently does not work. I have read that this may be due to the use of LED tail lights, but I do not know.
What am I including? I have been collecting parts in the hope that I could do this project. All parts listed here are included. I will not separate parts of this out.
1) four mounted and balanced American Racing 16x8 wheels with Prestone Blizzak tires. These are great for winter, and have a lot of life left. A word of caution, these tires are much softer than the other tires (currently Kumhos). If you accelerate hard, they will spin on any surface.
2) Stock Valve Covers
3) replacement for the AC line I didn't replace (i.e. I bought both then replaced only the torn one)
4) Spare ECU. The ECU got messed up and I bought a second one. The first one has been fixed, and I believe it works fine.
5) Autometer Gauges and pods for Nitrous pressure and fuel level.
6) Holley Electric Fuel pump
7) MSD digital window Switch for controlling a nitrous system through various RPM ranges
8) rear quarter OEM impala logos
9) Stainless Impala SS text for driver side.
10) Texas Nitrous Technology Nitrous Kit, never opened. This includes what you see in the pictures. The tank has never been filled or purged. The car is basically in a condition where this could be installed! I would personally be more worried about a piece of the body falling off than the engine, but can OBVIOUSLY make no assertion of this car's ability to handle any level of Nitrous boost.
11) TransGO performance Shift kit. If installed, this will make the 4L60E transmission behave more like a manual transmission, remaining in the assigned gear until shifted. This can be desirable for racing etc.
12) There is a B&M Shifter installed in the car but is has not been connected to the transmission. I also have and am including the adapter bracket for this, so I don't believe any additional parts are needed.
13) OEM stereo head-unit, the old Opti-spark, the old alternator, the old fuel injectors a set of brake pads and a big-old-sack of bolts, old sensors and anything else I though was worth keeping.
14) A McColluch HID light kit.
15) A hood pin kit
16) a replacement power antenna. The car currently has an interior antenna in the dash, and it frankly sucks. Solution would be to either relocate it up to the roof under the headliner or fix the stock power unit (My thought was to remove the stock one when it was time for body work)
17) The stock owners manual, CD, and Haynes manual.
18) a new serpentine belt (Honestly didn't know I had that one)
19) Bunch of random spark plug cables
20) the rear "smoothie" bumper. You can see that the front and rear don't match but I have them both.
All parts will be delivered in the car, meaning that I will put the tires and bumper in the back seat and put all this other stuff in the trunk (or however it fits best). I will not separate.
I will accept cash, cashier's check, or papal transfer. I will not coordinate shipping for anyone!
I will not meet at my home or any private residence. I will meet at a police station less than 20ish miles from zip 62221. I will also meet on Scott AFB (not outside of it) or a public area like a target or Wal-Mart Parking lot in the same area. If you want to test-drive it, you should have cash on-hand, otherwise you'll be welcome to look at the car while it is running. If you seem serious, we will figure something out, I won't be unreasonable.
I have a clean title for this vehicle, and I drive it to work on nice days. That said, this car is being sold as-is, and I will state again that there are numerous things like the airbags, alternator, speedometer contacts, and shocks that make this what I would consider necessary prior to asserting that it is safe to drive, and since these have not been completed, I can not say that. Sales contract will also specifically state that the buyer accepts the car as is and understands that work may be required for it to be safe to drive.
This would be a big project but, I believe, a possibly rewarding one. I have looked on eBay, and these cars, in good condition, are selling for upwards of $15,000. A buyer could restore it and sell it, set it up for racing, or even pull the drive-train for a transplant project! It doesn't matter to me, of course. I have priced the car what I think is fair for all the parts. I understand that these parts are a sunk cost, and I'm simply trying to sell it for something fair. A re-manufactured long-block costs $2000, and this is a full car with headers, stainless mufflers and a nitrous kit. The starting bid is $1500, and it's more than half-way to the reserve.
This item is also for sale outside of eBay. Seller reserves the right to end auction early.